![]() ![]() You'll know if you missed a spot, or applied too little flux when the solder won't stick to the foil at all. I have a LOT of lessons learned using flux…but mainly just avoid using too much, or too little. Think of it as a viscous liquid lube THINLY applied to the soldering surface (copper foil seams) before you add the molten hot solder. FLUX is also a critical component to soldering. I rarely use my 50/50 solder, only for the initial "tacting" together of two pieces.ģ. All you really need is a spool of 60/40 solder.which is more flexible than 50/50. SOLDER is obviously necessary for soldering. *TIP: you should always start at the lowest temperature possible.Ģ. The melting point of most solder is in the region of 188☌ (370☏) SOLDERING IRON: ideally you will have a range of available temperatures, but at the end of day it just needs to be hot enough to melt solder. Homasote Board (optional) Used to protect table or soldering surface from burns.ġ. the Ultra Beetle Bits Glass Cutting System with it's "Flying Beetle Glass Cutter" on Amazon (see below) and it also comes with a 6-Pk Waffle Grid to catch glass and pop in rulers for straight cuts. Another recent purchase and luxury item.Cutting mat w/ measuring tools (optional).It pretty much changed my life.you will save SO MUCH TIME. I recently invested in a table foiler that dispenses, applies, and crimps foil in one smooth process.*TIP: if you're working with transparent glass or mirrors, you'll definitely want "black-backed tape". the Glastar Super Star II Glass GrinderĬopper Foil Tape: I typically buy 1/4-1/2 inch wide foil from MasterFoil or Venture Tape. I still have my Mom's glass grinder from Glastar.Glass of your choice * TIP: avoid thick or textured glass.unless you're trying to make your life difficult :) GLASS CUTTING, GRINDING, AND FOILING TOOLS (photo 1 & 2 above) ![]()
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